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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Holly:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Please note some <FONT color=#ff0000>amendments
</FONT><FONT color=#000000>to my original text, submitted herewith with
apologies for any misunderstanding or lack of clarity--I knocked it out a bit
too quickly, off the top of my head. </FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>WT</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>PS: Please inform me of results. It would be
interesting, if the area is more or less homogeneous, to set up some field
trials to compare techniques. This can be a bit tricky; one technique I've used
is to use circular plots spaced far enough apart within a treated area to avoid
"edge contamination." If possible, no plots should be downwind from any of the
other plots. And, of course, it's best if the results can be replicated to
minimize chance and "luck" as factors. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>----- Original Message ----- </FONT>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>From: "Wayne Tyson" <</FONT><A
href="mailto:landrest@cox.net"><FONT face=Arial
size=2>landrest@cox.net</FONT></A><FONT face=Arial size=2>></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>To: <</FONT><A
href="mailto:hslettel@calpoly.edu"><FONT face=Arial
size=2>hslettel@calpoly.edu</FONT></A><FONT face=Arial size=2>>;
<</FONT><A href="mailto:apwg@lists.plantconservation.org"><FONT face=Arial
size=2>apwg@lists.plantconservation.org</FONT></A><FONT face=Arial size=2>>;
"</FONT><A href="mailto:'californiaweedtalk@topica.com'"><FONT face=Arial
size=2>'californiaweedtalk@topica.com'</FONT></A><FONT face=Arial size=2>"
<</FONT><A href="mailto:CaliforniaWeedTalk@topica.com"><FONT face=Arial
size=2>CaliforniaWeedTalk@topica.com</FONT></A><FONT face=Arial
size=2>></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2011 2:04 AM</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Subject: Re: [CalWeedTalk] Removing invasive
grasses</FONT></DIV></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial><BR><FONT size=2></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>> 1. Do not disturb soil for any reason.<BR>>
2. Cut back the tall grasses to a convenient height; destroy seeds and <BR>>
stolons/rhizomes. Cut them green, before they are capable of dehiscence (if
<BR>> this is a problem, use a torch to cautiously cut bundles wrapped with
bags <BR>> to contain seed.<BR>> 3. Let new leaves form.<BR>> 4.
Touch/swipe with wet wick with degradable herbicide sufficient for a good
<BR>> kill. Do not spray (Very low pressure with spray drift guard attached
to <BR>> head of wand, coarse spray only, zero atomization, to wet only
target <BR>> [larger] plants <FONT color=#ff0000>is ok if you are very
careful)</FONT>. Do not remove dead plants.<BR>> 5. Work hard to determine
optimal concentration and dose--start with light <BR>> concentration and
minimal dose and increase gradually.<BR>> 6. Increase density of indigenous
species.<BR>> 7. Plug ten square meter circles with (say ten?) soil samples
taken <BR>> widely-spaced from donor/comparable site <FONT color=#ff0000>(to
minimize potential damage to donor site)</FONT>, placing them evenly over entire
<FONT color=#ff0000>treatment </FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>> site as budget will permit. You can plug <FONT
color=#ff0000>in </FONT>indigenous plants the same way, at <BR>> the same
time. Each year, add plugs until a satisfactory density is reached.<BR>> 8.
Do entire site at one time.<BR>> 9. Keep after it with zero-tolerance removal
of new sprouts or steps above.<BR>> 10. Apply patience liberally.<BR>> 11.
Measure and map initially, after treatment, and during follow-up, <BR>>
measuring and mapping trends.<BR>> 12. Minimize trampling.<BR>> <BR>>
WT<BR>> <BR>> ----- Original Message ----- <BR>> From: "Holly
Sletteland" <</FONT><A href="mailto:hslettel@calpoly.edu"><FONT face=Arial
size=2>hslettel@calpoly.edu</FONT></A><FONT face=Arial size=2>><BR>> To:
<</FONT><A href="mailto:apwg@lists.plantconservation.org"><FONT face=Arial
size=2>apwg@lists.plantconservation.org</FONT></A><FONT face=Arial size=2>>;
"</FONT><A href="mailto:'californiaweedtalk@topica.com'"><FONT face=Arial
size=2>'californiaweedtalk@topica.com'</FONT></A><FONT face=Arial size=2>"
<BR>> <</FONT><A href="mailto:CaliforniaWeedTalk@topica.com"><FONT
face=Arial size=2>CaliforniaWeedTalk@topica.com</FONT></A><FONT face=Arial
size=2>><BR>> Sent: Monday, April 04, 2011 7:19 PM<BR>> Subject:
[CalWeedTalk] Removing invasive grasses<BR>> <BR>>
<BR>>><BR>>> Does anyone have any suggestions on an approach for
removing invasive<BR>>> grasses that are inter-mixed with wetland
vegetation such as rushes, <BR>>> sedges<BR>>> and native salt
grass? The grasses we are dealing with are veldt grass<BR>>> (Ehrharta
calycina) and velvet grass (Holcus lanatus) primarily. We have a<BR>>>
real problem and we're not winning the battle by hand digging. There's
too<BR>>> much of a seed bank and the soil disturbance just brings up a
whole new<BR>>> crop. I'm thinking of perhaps "sacrificing" a section at a
time and just<BR>>> spraying everything and replanting wetland vegetation.
I would try to hold<BR>>> the line against any new invaders and move to a
new section when things <BR>>> were<BR>>> pretty well established.
It might be easier to control new grass shoots.<BR>>> But I recoil
at the thought of killing that many native plants. Are there<BR>>> any
selective herbicides (or concentrations) that would set the grasses<BR>>>
back, but not do in the sedges and rushes? Any other mechanical methods
-<BR>>> mulches, weed barriers, flamers, whatever that anyone has used
with any<BR>>> success? Help!<BR>>><BR>>>
_______________________________________________<BR>>><BR>>> Holly
Sletteland<BR>>> Preserve Manager<BR>>> Morro Coast Audubon
Society<BR>>> PO Box 1507<BR>>> Morro Bay, CA 93443<BR>>>
805.772.1991 / 805.239.3928<BR>>>
_______________________________________________<BR>>><BR>>><BR>>>
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